In the misty mountains of the Cordillera region, about a five to six-hour drive north of Baguio, lies Sagada, where each year on the first of November, locals commemorate their departed loved ones through the solemn ritual of panag-apoy.
As the sun sets on All Saints’ Day, families gather at Calvary Hill Cemetery to kindle bonfires next to the tombstones. Fueled by pine wood kindling known as saleng rather of candles, these bonfires can withstand mountain winds and provide warmth and light against the cold Sagada breeze.
Panag-apoy, or kankana-ey, which translates “to light a fire,” holds a broader meaning for the community by igniting fire and prayer to their ancestors.
While tourists are fascinated by the panag-apoy, it is primarily intended for individuals who have a loved one’s grave buried at the site who can fully participate in the ceremony. However, some local guides extend the opportunity for tourists to watch this event by invitation.
Crystha Shayne Funcion, 38, witnessed the practice of panag-apoy and storytells her experience as a travel vlogger through her platform.
“The most unforgettable part of visiting Sagada is the locals, and with their deeply held traditions, it’s ideal to immerse yourself in their culture and understand their unique practices,” told Shayne.
According to Funcion, the ceremony begins with a mass at St. Mary Episcopalian Church, during which the priest blesses the pine wood used for the bonfires. From the cemetery hill, families continue the ritual at home by praying for blessing and protection from their ancestors.
“What makes this tradition sacred is that it’s blazing not just with fire but with meaning, connection, and respect,” she added.
Grounded in reverence and remembrance, panag-apoy not only honors those who have passed but also strengthens the ties between the living and the land, ensuring that the spirits of departed loved ones continue to illuminate their lives.
