Filipino journalist and historian Carmen Guerrero-Nakpil, in her essay “Where is the patis?,” argued that the first bastion of the Filipino spirit is the palate.
“A Filipino may denationalize himself but not his stomach. He may travel over the seven seas, the five continents, the two hemispheres and lose the savor of home, forget his identity and believes himself a citizen of the world. But he remains—gastronomically, at least, always a Filipino. For, if in no other way, the Filipino loves his country with his stomach,” she said.
But with the influx of American diners and burger joints, of Korean BBQ joints (one even bearing the very Filipino name Romantic Baboy), of Japanese ramen houses, and of the several other restaurants and stalls selling international dishes like the proverbial hotcake, it has become more imperative to promote and celebrate our gastronomic heritage.
Two years ago, the Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement lobbied for the National Commission for Culture and the Arts to request the President to declare April of every year as Buwan ng Kulinaryang Pilipino.
“Philippine food has been receiving a lot of recognition in the global food scene lately. Many have predicted that it will be the next big thing in food. But I personally think that there is still work to be done to encourage our countrymen and women to learn about, appreciate, and honor our rich culinary traditions as a strong pillar of our national cultural identity,” wrote PCHM president Chef Jam Melchor in the petition filed through Change.org.
The petition received the backing of NCCA chairman Virgilio Almario, and the commission created the draft proclamation in as early as August 2016.
Almario, in a follow-up letter sent to Malacañang in September last year, wrote: “The commission believes that food plays a vital role in maintaining connection in one’s cultural heritage and that it also serves as an important ingredient in maintaining the cultural identity of our country.”
The waiting game for a presidential action took 20 months since NCCA created its draft. And on April 13, President Rodrigo Duterte finally signed Proclamation No. 469 declaring the month of April of every year as Buwan ng Kalutong Pilipino or Filipino Food Month.
“Our vast culinary tradition and treasures should be appreciated, preserved, and promoted to ensure their transmission to future generations and to support the various industries, farmers, and agri-communities which benefit therefrom,” said Duterte.
The President likewise directed the NCCA and the Department of Agriculture to lead the annual celebration.
Duterte’s proclamation could not have come at a better time. On one hand, Filipino cuisine has held its ground in the international scene, and was even included in Bloomberg’s 11 Fancy Food Trends in 2017. But on the other hand, there are at least 50 Filipino food products that have landed in the Ark of Taste, an international catalogue of endangered heritage foods.
“Our longstanding culinary traditions need to be celebrated and preserved as well, especially since many of our culinary products and practices are slowly disappearing in the face of the globalization of food culture,” said Melchor.
“The Philippines has all the right ingredients to become an international culinary destination. So long as we can cultivate a homegrown appetite for and interest in our local cuisine, global recognition will soon follow,” he added.
And this should be the case not just in April of every year but every day of the year.
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