For his Spring-Summer 2017 collection, Anthony Vaccarello has let himself get carried away by the images of the designer in flashbacks and snapshots.
In his mind, the picture of Paloma Picasso landing in the life of the couturier, with her 1940s second-hand clothes and her own style, inspired the 1972 “Scandal” collection, which was irreverent and disturbing to the eyes of society then. It is this attitude that Vaccarello transposes in the present.
A Saint Laurent woman today, draws her references from the 1980s to make them her own; a girl who cultivates a taste for what is kitsch, the bizarrely beautiful, the great classics and has a highly individual style.
The starting point of this collection is a dress with exaggerated sleeves taken from the archives. From this thread, Vaccarello draws a contemporary silhouette, a sort of sensitive and personal collage as though this girl, whose fashion culture is part of her—and has restructured the model, brought the shoulders down, attached a sleeve to a bustier, wore it with jeans or under a boy’s jacket—a distant evocation of Saint Laurent’s sailor coat.
Meanwhile, the corner stone of the fashion house’s lexicon, the tuxedo, inspired this collection; exploring the tailoring savoir-faire of Saint Laurent’s ateliers, Vaccarello deconstructs and revises the tuxedo.
There is a second degree in this collection, a collection within the collection of what Mr. Saint Laurent loved above all: twisting bourgeois conventions and flirting with bad taste.
The Spring-Summer 2017 show which had music played by Sebastian, took place at Rue de Bellechasse in the 17th century Abbey of Penthemont, which until 2014 was home to the Ministry of the French Armed Forces. Today it is in full renovation to welcome the headquarters and showrooms of Saint Laurent in 2018.
In the Philippines, Saint Laurent is located at Shangri-La Plaza East Wing, Solaire and Rustan’s Makati.
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